Resource Library / Warranties vs. MaintenanceSave Water, Energy, and Money with Green PlumbingIs Water Pressure Getting You Down?Times Have Changed: What You Might Be Missing!Help the Environment, Go Green & Save $Basics of Air ConditioningWhy You Shouldn’t “Super” Size Your New Heating and Cooling SystemInside Your Air DuctsHot Water on DemandThe Value of Quality Installation and MaintenanceBasics of A Water Heater – What You Don’t Know Can Cost You!Plumbing 101The Importance of Heating & Cooling System MaintenanceSo You’re Considering an Air Conditioning ReplacementImportant Changes Regarding the R-22 RefrigerantProblems of Poor Indoor Air Quality
- Posted: Aug 31, 2010
In the HVAC (heating, cooling & ventilation) industry, we often hear the comments, ”We don’t need planned maintenance, we’re still under warranty.” Nothing could be further from the truth!
Manufacturers, to help compensate for problems caused by manufacturing defects, provide warranties on new equipment. If a piece of equipment fails during the warranty period and if the manufacturer accepts that the failure was not caused by outside influence (through improper use or lack of routine maintenance procedures), then they will generally provide a replacement part, free of charge. Equipment manufacturers don’t typically cover labor and the necessary materials needed to replace a failed/ broken part, however, at Bayonet, we cover parts and labor for the first year on all repairs made and all systems we install.
In some cases, if a manufacturer determines that a lack of routine maintenance has contributed to the failure of equipment then the warranty coverage can be revoked leaving the homeowner to accept the full cost of repair.
Planned Maintenance inspections are important to not only keep your warranty valid, but also to keep your heating & cooling system working efficiently and safely. Most of us think that after we’ve bought our heating and cooling system, we’re done. We put out the money to pay for this expensive equipment (the most expensive equipment in most homes!) and we expect it to work, without any more effort.
I doubt that any of us would think the same of our cars. We know that our cars require regular maintenance if we want them to keep performing day after day. If you were to stop all maintenance on your car it would eventually seize up and quit working. The same applies to your heating and cooling system, which without regular maintenance will eventually breakdown or fail in approximately 2-3 years. After spending a bunch of money on a HVAC system no one wants to turn around and have to shell out this same money 2-3 years down the road. Your heating and cooling equipment, like your car requires regular maintenance.
Looking back at our records, we were able to determine that 50% of our repair calls could have been avoided by regular maintenance. By having a yearly tune-up on your system, you can avoid much more expensive repairs.
During a typical tune-up, your technician will have a long list of checks that they perform on your heating & cooling system. These checks enable the technician to catch things like a loose electrical connection or parts with visible wear. These problems caught at the time of a tune-up can easily be fixed and will help avoid costly repairs later.
Lack of maintenance will lead to dirt and dust build-up in your system as well. According to Energy Star, a division of the EPA, “Dirt and neglect are the #1 causes of heating and cooling system failure.” This build-up will cause your system to run harder and longer and greatly decreases its efficiency. As your system works harder to beat the heat or cold, your monthly utility bills will increase.
Lack of maintenance on your heating & cooling system can also lead to safety issues. During a tune-up all of the electrical connections are examined, and the unit disconnect switch along with all of the safety devices are checked. If you do not have your system checked out annually you could be running a serious safety risk and not even be aware of it.
As with our cars, we realize that if we don’t do regular maintenance, like oil changes and tune-ups, we will void our warranties. If something major goes wrong with our car we won’t be able to go into the dealership and have it fixed under warranty. Well, the same goes for your heating and cooling system. Most appliances have a 5-10 year warranty, and if you don’t maintain the equipment and something goes wrong, you’re out of luck and the warranty will be void. You’ll end up spending a large amount of money to fix it or even replace equipment that would have been covered under warranty, had you kept up with maintenance.
A lack of maintenance leads to repairs and early equipment failure, inefficiency, higher utility bills and an overall decrease in the system’s ability to keep your home comfortable, not to mention, invalidating your warranty and creating an unsafe environment in your home. When you look at all of this, the cost of a yearly tune-up is cheap in comparison!
Sources: www.bayonet-inc.com
www.energystar.gov
- Posted: Aug 03, 2010
“Going green” is not a new term for most of us, however, it might be as it applies to the plumbing in your home. Green plumbing is plumbing that is designed to be the most energy efficient and at the same time conserve the most water. A great by-product of saving on water and energy is that you will also be saving on your monthly utility bills. Green plumbing involves anything from changing traditional fixtures and faucets, to water saving fixtures, to installing energy saving water heaters. Some basic green plumbing products include toilets, sinks and showerheads, water heaters, hot water re-circulating, and high-efficiency appliances.
Toilets and water fixtures for sinks and showers on the market today offer a great way to reduce your water usage. Low flow, dual flush toilets are a significant water saver. The dual flush mechanism allows you to choose the amount of water required for waste. For your sinks, low flow aerators are efficient devices that save water without compromising on your pressure. They can be directly fitted onto the faucet head and control the water flow. Low-flow showerheads are also based on control flow technology to manage the water flow and save considerably on water consumption.
Water heaters are a very important part of green plumbing. High efficiency water heaters conserve water along with energy. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, hot water heating can account for as much as 14-25 percent of your total home energy use. Replacing an older unit with a new, high-efficiency one can have a big impact when it comes to reducing your home heating costs.
Tankless or instant water heaters are another way to reduce not only water usage but also to gain energy savings. Tankless water heaters obtain hot water without first storing water in a tank. They heat the water instantly, providing it as needed, so you will only pay for heating water that you actually use. Because you do not store water in a tank you will eliminate standby heat losses associated with a traditional tank water heater.
A hot water circulation pump is another green plumbing method. Every year thousands of gallons of wasted water go down the drain, costing homeowners thousands of dollars. A significant amount of this waste occurs when homeowners wait for their water to reach a comfortable temperature before they shower or wash their hands. A circulation pump eliminates this wait and unnecessary waste of water by providing instant hot water.
A last step to take to be more “green” with your plumbing is to replace older appliances with new energy efficient appliances. High-efficiency washing machines and dishwashers will save you on energy usage as well as water. Newer appliances use less water and energy. You can check with www.energystar.gov for products that are energy efficient in both of these categories.
Green plumbing is a way to reduce your water and energy usage. As you begin to replace fixtures or appliances in your home you should seriously consider replacing them with “green” plumbing products. Most people do not have the money to make all of these changes at once, but as you implement them over time, you will be able to decrease your carbon footprint and conserve our natural resources with the added benefit of lower utility bills!
Sources: www.energystar.gov
www.energysavers.gov
www.bayonet-inc.com
- Posted: Jun 18, 2010
When you open the faucet in your home most of us take for granted that the water will flow out. Of course, this is really dependent upon the pressure that water is under. Water pressure is created by water forcing its way through the distribution system to your tap. Water pressure should generally be between 60 and 75 PSI inside your home. You can experience problems when your water pressure is higher or lower than this range. Too low or too high of water pressure can cause a variety of problems around your home.
There are several factors that can affect the water pressure in your home. The water pressure at your home depends on the elevation of your home and your proximity to the water storage tank, which serves your home. The closer your home is to the elevation of the storage tank serving you, the lower your pressure will be. Similarly, the lower your home is in relation to the storage tank, the higher your water pressure.
Water pressure can also vary at different times of the day. Pressure is normally higher late at night when very little water is being used and most people’s taps are closed. In the morning, when everyone is running taps – or on a hot evening when many people are using garden hoses and sprinklers – the pressure in our water mains may be lower.
Also, many low-pressure problems are created in the home. In these cases, your home has adequate water pressure, but pressure at fixtures drops off when another fixture is turned on. This situation is most commonly encountered when someone flushes a toilet when another person is in the shower. Usually the problem is that the water volume is lowered, therefore reducing the amount of water that comes out of the fixture.
If you are experiencing unusually low water pressure throughout your entire home, below are some checks that can help your troubleshoot the problem.
- Has any plumbing work been done lately? If so, check all your main and shut-off valves to be sure they are wide-open.
- Do you have a pressure-reducing valve (PRV) installed? If so, it may be out of adjustment or need to be replaced. Incorrectly adjusting the regulator could cause water pressure that is too low or too high inside your home. It is highly recommended that you have a qualified plumber make any adjustments.
- Your home may have a PRV, but not actually need it. A PRV installed in a low pressure area will greatly restrict volume or flow.
- Water pressure loss can be caused by an undetected leak. Your water meter can help you detect a leak. Always call a plumber and get leaks fixed immediately!
- In older homes, water pressure problems also may be caused by calcium deposits that build up on the inside of your home’s water pipes, with hot water lines more susceptible than cold. This is especially common in iron pipe. Plumbers can sometimes remove this kind of blockage be blowing high pressure air through the water lines. DO NOT try to do this yourself; inexperienced users often end up causing leaks in the pipes, which leads to piping replacement jobs costing thousands of dollars.
- Another problem, prevalent in older homes, is undersized water pipe. Homes built in an era when the typical house had only a single toilet and tub required a three-eighths inch diameter water pipe. Since then many households have added bathrooms, along with many more water using appliances. In these cases re-piping may be the only permanent solution to the home’s water pressure problems.
- A frequent cause of low water pressure is a valve that was closed during routine servicing of a water softener or other water conditioning device. If you have a water softener and the servicing company has recently visited your home to replace the canister, check to see if the service person fully reopened the valve.
- Is there a water softener in your home? It may be malfunctioning or starting to ‘bind-up.’ Try bypassing it to see if flow is restored.
- Do you have a whole house filter? If so, check and/or replace the filter cartridge.
If you are experiencing low pressure at one fixture, consider the below factors:
- Has the fixture been repaired or replaced? New fixtures can be more restricted and may make it appear to be flowing slower than older fixtures.
- Mineral deposits from hard water can clog hose filters carrying water to your washer or the aerators on faucets or showerheads, resulting in lower water pressure. Mineral deposits are not harmful and can be easily removed by soaking the filter or part in vinegar periodically.
- If you have low pressure in your shower, the balancing or anti-scald valve may be malfunctioning and restricting flow. Also, some massage-type and hand-held showerheads may restrict and impede flow.
The opposite problem to low water pressure is of course, high water pressure. High water pressure is rough on pipes as well as water using appliances. Too high of pressure can lead to leaks in your pipes and cause your appliances to “burst” from the pressure, leading to potentially expensive damage to your home.
The symptoms of excessive water pressure in a home include; banging pipes, a leaking water heater, a stinging shower spray, running out of hot water quickly and faucets that leak again a few months after washers have been replaced.
If you live in a high pressure area and experience some of these symptoms, you may need a plumber to install a pressure reducer. If you have a pressure reducer and are experiencing problems, the pressure reducer may need repair. A pressure reducer might not be working properly if:
- You hear a loud or banging noise when fixtures are turned off.
- Water bursts out very strongly when fixtures are first turned on and then returns to normal.
Lastly, if you are experiencing high pressure at one fixture, consider installing low flow showerheads and/or faucets.
When dealing with too high or too low water pressure in your home, it’s always best to consult a professional plumber to help not only diagnose your problem, but to come up with the best fix as well. Don’t wait until it becomes a bigger problem – leaky faucet or burst pipe – and an even more expensive fix!
Sources: www.bayonet-inc.com
www.irwd.com
www.nwwater.com
- Posted: May 27, 2010
If you have an older heating and cooling system, you need to be aware of all of the changes that have occurred over the last 20 years. We have seen a true revolution in heating and cooling equipment. Today’s technology is over two times as efficient (SEER), has advanced humidity control along with sophisticated temperature controls, provides built-in air purification options and has the ability to program and monitor your system from a remote location. If you haven’t kept up, here’s what you’re missing …
1. SEER
In the 1990s the DOE (Department of Energy) mandated a minimum SEER rate of 10 for all new air conditioners sold in the United States. Since January 23, 2006, all air conditioners manufactured in the United States now must have a Seer of 13 or higher.
If you have a 10 SEER air conditioning system from 20 years ago, you can upgrade to a 16 SEER and experience a 50% savings in your monthly cooling costs. That’s a huge savings! The efficiencies of heating and cooling equipment have greatly increased and with these energy savings, if you are considering replacement of old equipment, you will experience a much quicker payback on your equipment.
2. Heat or Humidity?
What makes you feel hot – is it the heat or the humidity? I remember last summer sitting by the pool with friends and one of them said, “You know it wouldn’t be so bad out here if it weren’t so humid.” Heat and humidity are a very uncomfortable combination, however, it’s humidity that most affects your body’s ability to cool itself. Your body is cooled when you sweat and the sweat evaporates off of your body. When the concentration of water vapor in the air, or humidity, is high it affects the potential for evaporative cooling. Basically, there is too much moisture in the air and the sweat on your body can’t evaporate.
Twenty years ago if you wanted to add or take away humidity from your home you could have purchased a room humidifier/dehumidifier and it would have done an adequate job for a small area. Current heating and cooling systems have integrated humidifier and dehumidifier options. You can now control the humidity in your whole home and by controlling humidity levels you can greatly increase the comfort of your home. In the summer, by decreasing the level of humidity in your home, you will even be able to turn down the air conditioning, as it will feel cooler in your home. Turning down the air conditioning means lower utility bills for you!
3. Digital Thermostats
Today's electronic models are a vast departure from earlier mechanical styles, which basically allowed you to set and adjust temperatures manually. Digital thermostats offer more accuracy than ever before - perfect temperature control within 1º F. The new digital thermostats have microprocessors that allow you to program your home temperatures to suit your lifestyle, so you can keep things comfortable while you're home and automatically set back temperatures to save energy when you're away or sleeping.
Did you know that properly using a digital programmable thermostat in your home is one of the easiest ways you can save energy, money, and help fight global warming? (http://www.energystar.gov) A programmable thermostat helps make it easy for you to save by regulating your home's temperature in both summer and winter - when you are asleep or away. The settings that come with programmable thermostats are intended to deliver savings without sacrificing comfort. Depending on your family's schedule, you can see significant savings by sticking with those settings or adjust them as appropriate for your family.
Unlike the older, mechanical thermostats, a digital room thermostat also offers users a large LCD screen for easy reading. This is especially beneficial for older people or those with poor eyesight, as the older mechanical thermostats of the past are very difficult to read.
4. Remote Access
Remote Access is a major innovation in heating and cooling. We have nothing to compare it to 20 years ago. Systems with this feature allow homeowners to monitor the components and get system status feedback. It can also halt the system when a major problem is detected.
Another benefit of Remote Access is the ability for homeowners to adjust temperatures when they are away from home. This is a great feature for those individuals that travel a lot for work or for those on vacation. Remote Access gives homeowners peace of mind, knowing that when you are away from home everything is functioning, as it should. This feature saves homeowners money, by adjusting temperatures while away and resuming them to a comfortable level prior to returning home. So that you’re not heating or cooling your home when you are not there.
5. Built-in air purification
Twenty years ago air quality was not recognized as an important issue like it is today. The products on the market were for single room air purifiers. Today indoor air quality has become a major issue in our lives. According to the EPA (http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/insidest.html), “In the last several years, a growing body of scientific evidence has indicated that the air within homes and other buildings can be more seriously polluted than the outdoor air in even the largest and most industrialized cities. Other research indicates that people spend approximately 90 percent of their time indoors. Thus, for many people, the risks to health may be greater due to exposure to air pollution indoors than outdoors.”
The HVAC (heating, cooling and ventilation) industry has responded to these concerns and many products available on the market today help with poor air quality problems. You can add whole home air purifiers and air cleaners to your heating and cooling system. So now instead of merely cleaning the air in one room, your HVAC system is providing clean air to your entire home.
The heating and cooling industry has come a long way in 20 years. The innovations that have occurred during this time are allowing homeowners to conserve energy, lower utility costs, and increase overall comfort and convenience. If you are still living in the dark ages with a 15-20 year old heating and cooling system now is a great time to upgrade and reap the many benefits!
Sources:
www.bayonet-inc.com
www.epa.gov
www.energystar.gov
- Posted: Apr 30, 2010
Going green is a popular trend these days, and by going green you are helping conserve our natural resources. Fortunately for homeowners, the by-product of conserving natural resources is often a reduction in monthly utility bills. The home services industry (i.e. heating & cooling and plumbing) offers products on the market today that are more efficient than ever. By choosing these energy efficient products you can save money and “go green” without losing anything in home comfort.
“The term ‘energy efficiency’ is heard a lot these days and what it means to homeowners is that they can get the same amount of comfort, or hot water, while using less energy and reducing greenhouse gas emissions,” states Kris Blankenship of Bayonet Inc, a local heating, cooling and plumbing company. According to experts energy efficient choices can save families about one-third of their energy bill with similar savings of greenhouse gas emissions - without sacrificing features, style or comfort. This allows you save money in lower utility costs while doing something good for the environment.
On average 50% of your home energy usage goes to heating and cooling your home. Heating and cooling systems of today have increased in efficiency over just the last 10 years. By replacing older equipment you can realize great energy savings.
AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency) is the rating system for heating systems. The higher the percentage, the more efficient a system is.
The minimum efficiency allowed by the government is an 80% AFUE. What this rating means is that 80% of the energy output used goes to heating your home and 20% goes out the chimney as waste. Trane®, a leading heating and cooling manufacturer, offers systems with efficiencies as high as 96.7% AFUE. With a high efficiency system very little energy is wasted.
The same applies to air conditioning systems. These systems are rated by S.E.E.R. (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating). Just like heating systems, the higher the S.E.E.R. the more efficient the system is.
The government standard is 13 S.E.E.R. If you have an old 10 S.E.E.R. system in your home and upgrade to a 16 S.E.E.R. system you will see savings of up to 50%. These savings will easily help offset the initial cost of your new system.
The plumbing industry has also made great strides in providing “green” energy-efficient products for homeowners. A tankless water heater is a product that accomplishes the goals of both resource conservation and money savings for homeowners.
Homeowners can conserve two natural resource, water and energy, by switching from a traditional water heater to a tankless water heater. A traditional water heater works by constantly heating and reheating the water in your tank. A tankless water heater only heats water as it is needed. Because it does not store water, but rather heats water instantly when needed, you will not be paying to constantly heat the same water over and over again. Also, because the hot water is instant there is no need to run the tap waiting for the warm water, which results in wasted water.
When considering some of these options for your own home, keep in mind that currently there are Energy Tax Credits available to help defer the costs of new systems. The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act allows consumers to receive a tax credit for 30% of the cost of qualifying energy efficient products, up to $1,500. This credit is currently available through December 31, 2010. You can go to www.energystar.gov to check for qualifying products.
Going green may be a popular trend, but is quickly becoming a way of life as homeowners look for ways to not only conserve our natural resources but also save money in this struggling economy. The heating, cooling and plumbing industries recognize these issues and have products that are helping homeowners address them. Now is a good time if you are considering upgrading to energy efficient products, as the Energy Tax Credits are only available until the end of this year. Conservation of natural resources makes good sense (dollars and cents, too!)
Sources:
www.energystar.gov
www.bayonet-inc.com
www.rinnai.com
www.trane.com
- Posted: Mar 30, 2010
Most people don’t realize how their central air conditioner actually works. They think that an air conditioner functions by pumping cool air into their home. But your air conditioner actually removes warm air and recirculates it as cool air. An air conditioner is basically a refrigerator. It uses the evaporation of a refrigerant, like Freon, to provide cooling. A central air conditioning system includes both the cooling and heating of air and cleans the air as well as controls the moisture level.
There are a number of ways you can cool our home, but with any central air conditioning system the basics are the same; you will have a method of removing warm air to create cool air, a way to distribute the air to all of the rooms in your home, typically your duct system, and a way to control or regulate your system (thermostat).
The first component of your air conditioning system is temperature control. When the air temperature rises above a preset level on your thermostat, the thermostat sends a signal to the air conditioner. This signals the air conditioner that it is time to turn on.
The compressor (which is controlled by the thermostat) is the "heart" of the system. The compressor acts as the pump, causing the refrigerant to flow through the system. Its job is to draw in a low-pressure, low-temperature, refrigerant in a gaseous state and by compressing this gas, raise the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant. This high-pressure, high-temperature gas then flows to the condenser coil.
The condenser coil is a series of piping with a fan that draws outside air across the coil. As the refrigerant passes through the condenser coil and the cooler outside air passes across the coil, the air absorbs heat from the refrigerant, which causes the refrigerant to condense from a gas to a liquid state. The high-pressure, high-temperature liquid then reaches the expansion valve.
The expansion valve is the "brain" of the system. By sensing the temperature of the evaporator, or cooling coil, it allows liquid to pass through a very small opening, which causes the refrigerant to expand to a low-pressure, low-temperature gas. This "cold" refrigerant flows to the evaporator.
The evaporator coil is a series of piping connected to a furnace or air handler that blows indoor air across it, causing the coil to absorb heat from the air. The cooled air is then delivered to the house through ducting. The refrigerant then flows back to the compressor where the cycle starts over again.
Most central air conditioning units operate by means of a split system. That is, they consist of a "hot" side, or the condensing unit—including the condensing coil, the compressor and the fan—which is situated outside your home, and a "cold" side that is located inside your home. The cold side consists of an expansion valve and a cold coil, and it is usually part of your furnace or some type of air handler. The furnace blows air through an evaporator coil, which cools the air. Then this cool air is routed throughout your home by means of a series of air ducts.
Heat pumps and geothermal systems are other options for cooling your home. The basic principle of removing warm air and replacing it with cool air applies to these systems as well.
It is important to understand how air conditioning systems are rated for efficiency. They are rated by what is known as S.E.E.R., Seasonal, Energy Efficiency Rating. Air conditioners with a higher SEER are more efficient, less costly to operate and more environmentally friendly. The current government minimum is 13 SEER.
So those are the basics of your cooling system, the thermostat for control, the central air conditioning unit to remove warm air in order to create cool air, and a duct system to move the air through your home. And that how your central air conditioning system keeps you cool!
Sources: www.energystar.gov
www.energysavers.gov
www.howstuffworks.com
www.ahrinet.org
- Posted: Mar 03, 2010
Don’t pay too much for Your Heating & Cooling System
We, as Americans, think that bigger is better and buy products that are “jumbo”, “extra large”, or “mega” size. We generally think we are getting a better value and more of what we want. But when it comes to a home’s heating and cooling needs, super-sizing your system can cost you in both money and comfort.
If you are in the market to replace older, inefficient heating and cooling system with new energy efficient ones, an understanding of the critical importance of sizing the system correctly is needed. The correct size of heating and cooling equipment in your home will improve your comfort while reducing costs, maintenance and energy usage.
To give you some history, homes were not as tightly constructed in the past as they are today and it was not uncommon to install furnaces and air conditioners that were two to four times the necessary capacity. Now most people have added new windows, caulking, weather-stripping, and insulation to their homes. Making improvements such as these to reduce heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer allows you to install a much smaller system while still being comfortable and saving on your monthly utility bills.
The most common mistake made in new heating and cooling systems is oversizing. This will make the new system not only more expensive to buy and install, but also forces it to operate inefficiently. An oversized system will also breakdown more often and cost more to operate. Oversized heating equipment creates uncomfortable and large temperature swings. Oversized air conditioners (and heat pumps) do not run long enough to dehumidify the air, which results in the air feeling “clammy” and the potential for unhealthy mold growth in your home.
Oversized equipment experiences frequent starts and stops (known as “short cycling”) will accelerate the wear and tear on the equipment, which can lead to premature failure. Oversized equipment also uses more fan power for the blower, which often leads to duct leakage due to higher operating duct pressures.
On the other side, undersized equipment, with airflow that is too low, can reduce the efficiency of the air distribution and accelerate wear on the system components, leading to earlier failure. Basically, your system will be working longer and harder to keep up with your comfort demands. Your system will have to run constantly and will wear itself out at a quicker rate.
A home “load calculation” is critical when homeowners are looking for a new heating and cooling system. This is basically a list of factors that determine what size system you need. A good contractor/technician will look at things such as, wall measurements, floor space, windows, R-value of home’s insulation, overall square footage of livable space, etc. A close estimate of a building’s air leakage is also necessary. This estimate should also include an inspection of the size, condition of seals on joints and insulation and location of distribution ducts in a forced air system.
Beware of a contractor/technician who only checks the “nameplate” (the label listing BTU’s) of the existing unit and tries to sell you one just like it or even worse, one that’s larger. This is not the correct way to size equipment and is not in your best interest. Another method includes using simple “rule of thumb”. They may base the size of your home on similar homes like it, using a chart that takes into account a variety of factors. This method can be used for a first estimate, but should not be used to size the actual system. You should include a requirement to produce a written sizing calculation when negotiating with your heating and cooling contractor/technician.
So remember when you are looking to buy a new heating and/or cooling system correctly sizing of your system will directly affect the comfort level in your home, as well as the long-term life of the system and overall cost to you. Pick the right size and skip the super-size!
Sources:
www.energy.gov
www.energystar.gov
www.hgtvpro.com
www.energysavers.gov
- Posted: Feb 02, 2010
The air duct system within your home is responsible for distributing air (cold or hot) throughout your home and returning it back to your equipment so that it can be treated, heated or cooled again, and then redistributed. Clean, maintained and well-installed ductwork enables your heating and cooling system to run more efficiently and maintain consistent temperatures, while providing better overall comfort to you and your family.
Layers of dirt in ductwork can affect your operating costs and comfort. Most dirt accumulates in the return ducts of your system, which leads back to your heating and cooling system. The dirt that does not get filtered by your filter will blow right back into your home. Did you know that air passes through the duct system at an average speed of 1000 feet per minute? Air moving at that speed kicks up a lot of harmful contamination and sends it right back into your living and breathing space!
Dirty ducts will quickly clog up a furnace filter and cause your furnace or air conditioner to work harder. And a system that has to work harder means higher utility bills for you. This dirt build-up will also affect the longevity and performance of your equipment. As your system works harder it will also work less efficiently, breakdown more frequently and cause more wear and tear on the equipment, decreasing the life of your equipment.
Changing air filters on your heating and cooling system regularly can help prevent this build-up. Also having your air ducts professionally cleaned will also greatly improve the quality of air in your home.
Maintaining your ducts is also important. You should have your ductwork periodically checked by a professional heating and cooling technician for leaks. Leaky ductwork can cause your utility bills to be 20-30% higher than they should be. Leaky ducts will affect a system’s ability to deliver even heating and cooling throughout your home.
Poorly installed ductwork will result in poor performance as well. It can cause bad airflow, leaky ductwork systems and higher than usual utility bills. For these reasons it is important to have your ductwork installed correctly by a qualified installation technician whether for retrofit or new construction.
A qualified technician will take into consideration the load size. They will look at factors such as square feet of your home, number of occupants, which direction the house is facing, shading around your home, the number of doors and windows and many other factors. This is important because undersizing ductwork causes the system to strain mechanically and can be noisy and oversizing a system costs more and does not maintain the desired airflow.
The condition of your ductwork plays a key role in the overall energy efficiency of your home’s comfort system and affects how comfortable your home is. As a major part of your heating and cooling system, your ductwork should be cleaned, maintained and installed correctly. All of these factors will help ensure high efficiency equipment performance and equipment longevity, as well as decreased utility costs and increased home comfort.
Sources: www.bayonet-inc.com
www.energysaver.gov
www.energystar.gov
- Posted: Dec 29, 2009
The average household spends $400-600 per year on water heating, making it the second largest energy expenditure after heating and cooling. Water heaters have come a long ways in the last 20 years and are now much more efficient. Yet most Americans still have older conventional water heaters that do not take advantage of these efficiencies. Some consumers are finding tankless water heaters to be an excellent way to cut utility costs and be more energy efficient.
First of all, it helps to understand the difference between traditional and tankless water heaters. Traditional water heaters are designed to heat and store water in a tank, usually 40-50 gallons at a time. When this water is used, the tank is filled again with new water from your water source, which is then heated and stored until the next time, an endless cycle.
Tankless water heaters, however, provide hot water only as it is needed. They heat water directly without the use of a storage tank, thereby eliminating the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which will save you money. By heating water only when it’s needed, a gas tankless heater can cut expenses by 30% while providing a continuous supply of hot water.
Rinnai, a manufacturer of tankless water heaters (EnergyStar rated), reports that you can see energy efficiencies as high as 50% with their tankless water heater. With an 84% EF (energy-efficiency rating) these units will recoup their initial investment in a short period of time through savings realized when you are only heating water when you need it.
Tankless water heaters have a lot of benefits for homeowners. They have about twice the life expectancy of a traditional water heater and are wall mounted, so they don’t take up any floor space. Tankless systems also feature flash heating technology, which combines ultra-efficient consumption with low-emission technology, reducing CO and NOx emissions and your home’s carbon footprint.
An important factor if you are considering a tankless water heater is whether to go with an electric or gas unit. If you have a big house with more than one bathroom, you will need a large unit that can keep up with the heating. The best choice would be a gas heater because the capacity is much higher and it can heat the water faster than an electric heater. For a smaller house or an apartment, an electric heater is best. It is smaller and easier to install.
With a tankless water heater you are able to provide an endless supply of hot water efficiently throughout your home. You have the capacity to provide hot water to multiple appliances simultaneously with significant energy savings, and with the compact installation you save on valuable square footage that can be better used in your home. Don’t pay for something 24 hours a day you’re not using 24 hours a day!
Sources:
www.rinnai.com
www.bayonet-inc.com
www.energysavers.gov
www.energystar.gov
www.energy.gov
The Value of Quality Installation and Maintenance
- Posted: Dec 02, 2009
These days the internet has become a very valuable tool for price comparing when considering purchases, especially major purchases. Everyone uses it. However, if you are considering a new heating and cooling system you need to consider more than just what the best price is and who carries the top brand. The largest factors when buying a heating and cooling system are the installation and maintenance. Industry research shows that 90% of the value you receive is tied directly to installation and maintenance. The evaluation, installation and maintenance of your system have a greater impact on your wallet and overall comfort than the equipment itself! It is important to make sure it is installed properly, by a reputable company, and maintained to keep it working properly long after you buy it.
A properly installed heating and cooling system starts with a qualified technician performing a load calculation on your home prior to system selection. This calculation is necessary to insure that you get the correct size system to meet the needs of your home. A unit that is too big (oversized) may have a higher upfront cost, raise your utility costs, remove less humidity and fail more quickly. A unit that is too small will have to work harder to heat and cool your home and will most likely fail prematurely as well. A load calculation takes into consideration factors such as, the square footage of usable space in your home, the number of windows, types of windows, insulation amounts, the direction your home is facing and many other factors.
Another major factor in insuring that your system in installed correctly is to hire a reputable, trained technician. A professional service technician will know that your ducts need to be checked before installing a new HVAC system. If the ducts are too small they will cause your HVAC system to use more energy and will deliver less comfort. Too small of ducts will lead to early equipment failure as well. A trained technician will also know to measure and document your airflow, to measure refrigerant charge, to ensure that your unit is safe electrically, to test the firing rate on a new furnace or boiler and to test your thermostat to ensure it is compatible with the new equipment.
By choosing a reputable HVAC company for installation they should be able to provide you with a copy of the installation checklist with a record of all measurements taken during installation, as well as provide a copy of the owner’s manual, manufacturer’s warranty and their warranty. Along with this you should get a list of recommended maintenance requirements. Maintenance is key to keeping your system working at peak performance.
Many people don’t think that they need to maintain newly installed equipment. Not only is this necessary to keep your warranty in effect (most equipment manufacturers will state in the terms of their warranty that an annual maintenance must be performed by a qualified technician), but also to assure that your new equipment is operating safely and at its peak efficiency.
There is nothing better for your heating and/or air conditioning system than annual maintenance. Annual maintenance allows your system to continue to work at peak efficiency year in and year out. A system that is maintained annually experiences considerably fewer breakdowns and costly repairs along with using less energy. You’ll enjoy the peace of mind in knowing that your system is saving you money on your utility bills every time it comes on. In some instances, the energy savings are enough to pay the cost of the planned annual maintenance service.
So, when you’re in the market for a major purchase like a new heating & cooling system to maximize your home comfort do your research and pick a reputable, experienced HVAC company. Leave the internet to products that do not rely on the value of installation and maintenance!
Sources:
www.bayonet-inc.com
www.amana-hac.com
www.energystar.gov
Basics of A Water Heater – What You Don’t Know Can Cost You!
- Posted: Nov 03, 2009
Water heaters are one of those appliances that most homeowners take for granted. As long as you have your hot shower in the morning you just don’t think about it. Of course, there are probably some homeowners that have experienced flooded basements due to their hot water heater leaking. The unnecessary damage to your basement, cost of calling a plumber, and repair costs probably could have been avoided with a better understanding of how a hot water heater works. Understanding how your water heater works, types of water heaters (gas vs. electric), reasons for water heater failure, and when to replace your water heater can go a long way in saving you time, money and aggravation.
A hot water heater operates by the cold water supply line connecting (typically) to the top of the appliance. A dip tube carries the cold water down to the bottom of the tank, instead of dumping it on top of the hot water already in the tank. The cold water coming into the tank remains at the bottom of the tank because it is denser than hot water. The outbound hot water line takes the water off the top of the tank. This insures that when hot water is drawn out, it is at full temperature.
When you turn on a hot water tap, the water pressure from the cold water supply pushes the water out of the water heater and refills the tank with cold water. As cold water enters the tank, the thermostat senses the lower temperature and triggers the heating mechanism.
When the thermostat senses the water temperature has dropped below the hold level, it initiates the heating element in an electric water heater or a burner in a gas model. Even if you don’t use hot water, the temperature in the tank will eventually fall and so the water will be reheated to bring it back up to the desired temperature. A hot water heater basically heats water on a continual basis, whether you are using hot water or not.
Normally you can set the temperature between 120 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit (49 to 82 degrees Celsius). It is generally recommended, however, that you keep the temperature between 120 to 140 degrees F (49 to 60 C) -- especially if there are children living in the house -- to prevent scalding. This will also save energy.
Water heaters have a temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve that allows water to escape if the water pressure or temperature exceeds the limits of the tank. This is an important safety feature that keeps the tank from exploding.
Tanks normally operate up to 150 psi. The T&P valve is designed to release water from the tank when the pressure exceeds 150 psi. The valve will also open if the water temperature reaches 210 degrees (F). The T&P valve should have pipes connected to safely carry away the water without flooding or exposing people or pets to scalding hot water.
In the center of the water heater is an anode rod, sometimes called a sacrificial anode. The purpose of this piece of metal is to corrode instead of the tank corroding. The corrosive action of the hot water attacks the anode, extending the life of the tank.
There are two types of tank water heaters, gas or electric. A gas water heater is nearly identical to an electric water heater, except that it does not contain the two heating elements, but instead has a gas burner at the bottom, with the chimney running up through the middle of the tank.
Both types of tanks consist of a heavy inner steel tank that holds the hot water. Typically, this tank holds 40 to 60 gallons. It has to be able to hold the pressure of a residential water system, which typically runs at 50 to 100 pounds per square inch (psi). Tanks also have a bonded layer of glass to further protect them from corrosion.
The main reason that water heaters fail is due to plain old neglect. Most homeowners forget about them unless there is a problem. Leaks can develop over time and can slowly destroy a water heater from the outside in. Mark your calendar and check your water heater on a regular basis. If the outside of your tank shows signs of neglect have it serviced before it ends up leaking all over your basement.
Another way your water heater fails if due to internal rust. If the sacrificial anodes get used up and they are not replaced the tank will start to rust and eventually to leak. Regular maintenance can prevent this.
Sediment build-up is a third reason water heaters fail. Sediment is created when hard water is heated. It builds up in the bottom of the water heater, where it insulates the bottom of the tank from the protection of the anode. It also causes the bottom to overheat and melt away the protective glass lining. Having your water heater drained periodically can prevent this build up from occurring.
A surprising reason for failure is caused by the presence corrosive fumes. Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the quality of that air is important. Chemicals such as bleach, ammonia or acids or anything corrosive near the water heater can lead to premature tank failure. Also, having corrosives and the water heater in a small closed space concentrates the fumes and makes it even worse.
Lastly, a hidden killer of water heaters and one a lot of people wouldn’t suspect is water pressure. The water pressure gauge on your water heater should never read anything over 80 psi. Anything over that can damage water heaters, piping and appliances.
Most hot water heaters live for 10 – 15 years. If yours is in its later years, you should have a plumber look at it and advise you on how much life it has left. If it is starting to go, or just very inefficient, it may make sense to go ahead and replace it with a more energy efficient water heater. Don’t wait until it breaks down during the holidays and you have a houseful of guests. It takes a while to sort through all of your options and pick the best and most efficient water heater that meets your needs. Be proactive and be ready to replace your water heater before it breaks down and leaves you in a bind.
A basic understanding of your water heater can not only help trouble shoot a problem before the plumber shows up but will also help you to better maintain your water heater. Don’t wait until you’re that unlucky homeowner whose water heater leaked all over the floor of your basement, damaging carpet, furniture or other important items. Maintenance on your water heater helps insure that you have fewer problems to begin with, in addition to extending the life of your water heater. I little know-how goes a long way!
Sources:
www.energysavers.gov
www.energystar.gov
www.acmehowto.com
www.howstuffworks.com
Plumbing 101
- Posted: Sep 29, 2009
If you're lucky, you rarely need to worry about your plumbing. Your toilet flushes and your sink drains smoothly; you have plenty of hot water and your shower has good water pressure. But luck doesn't last forever. Many problems can occur in this system. Pipes can break, drains can plug, and valves can leak. When trouble arises, it's helpful if you know how the system works. This knowledge can help you save money, prevent damage to your home and keep your family safe.
The basics of plumbing are easy to understand. There are two separate subsystems in the plumbing system of your home, one that brings water in and one that takes wastewater back out. Water enters you house through a pressurized water line. The pressure of the water coming in allows it to move around corners and even upstairs. After being split into hot and cold water lines, the water supply runs to each fixture in your home.
The second subsystem in your home is for drainage. Once used, fresh water becomes wastewater, and it enters the drain-waste-vent (DWV) system. Gravity now takes over, pulling the wastewater down a series of sloped, ever larger pipes where it will flow to a sewage treatment facility or septic tank.
Water volume is vital to plumbing. All fixtures operate within a range of water volume. The plumber must ensure that each fixture, from the faucet to the laundry hose receives the correct amount of water volume. Plumbers rely on the internal diameter of the water pipes to control water volume. Surprisingly water pressure and water volume are not the same. The pressure remains the same, but the volume may change due to the variations in pipe size.
Gravity is another crucial part of a plumbing system. Plumbers use gravity to move the drainage and waste removal of the system. Drainage leaves your house because the pipes all pitch, or angle downward. Your system must also be properly vented in order to release air pressure, or it will lose its flow.
When designing or repairing a system, a plumber’s job is often dictated by local, state and federal codes. These codes will specify the internal diameter of pipe that must be used for a particular plumbing section or function. An example of this would be, pipe of increasingly smaller diameter is called for as the supply pipes branch out from the water main that enters the house. This is because the water coming out of the main is under too much water pressure for an individual fixture (sink, toilet, etc.) to handle. This decreasing drop in pressure as water moves away from the main to primary supply lines then to secondary supply lines, ensures that each appliance receives the correct amount of pressure and volume of water.
As mentioned previously, a plumbing system must be vented. Vents are the pipes you see sticking out of the roof of your house. These allow air to enter the drainpipes. Without this air supply coming in, wastewater would not flow out properly and the water in the traps (under a sink) would need to be siphoned away.
Traps are another important component of the drainage system. Every sink will have one under it; it is the S-shape section of pipe under the drain. Water that flows from the basin of the sink goes through this trap and out through the drainpipe. Enough water remains behind to form a seal that prevents sewer gas from backing up into your house. Every fixture must have a trap. This area under your sink is where you will often get a build-up of hair and grease and need to break up the clog or call a plumber to remove the clog.In a plumbing emergency, it's vital that you quickly close the main shutoff valve. Every homeowner should be aware of is where the emergency shut-off valves are located in their homes. Otherwise, when a pipe bursts, it can flood your house in no time. If the emergency is confined to a sink, tub, or toilet, however, you may not want to turn off your entire water supply. Therefore, most fixtures should have individual stop valves.
The most important valve in your house is the whole house shut-off valve. This is usually located near the foundation, either inside or outside your home, often in the basement or garage. If you ever have problems with this valve you should have it replaced immediately. The whole house hot-water turn-off is usually located on top of the water heater. Other fixtures in your home will have individual shut-off valves, such as toilets, sinks, dishwashers, and clothes washers.
Knowing some basics about the plumbing in your home can help save time and money when you encounter a problem. This knowledge can also save your home from serious damage if you ever have a pipe burst or a leaky fixture. And not least of the reasons, knowing your plumbing system will help you and your family stay safe if you ever have a plumbing emergency.
Sources: http://www.howstuffworks.com
www.bobvila.com
The Importance of Heating & Cooling System Maintenance
- Posted: Sep 16, 2009
According to Energy Star, a division of the EPA, “Dirt and neglect are the #1 causes of heating and cooling system failure.” Most people wouldn’t dream of driving their car without performing regular oil changes and tune-ups, but they will go year after year without servicing their heating and cooling systems. Your heating and cooling system, like your car, needs a tune-up to prevent breakdowns and unnecessary repairs. Your system requires a maintenance check-up twice a year, once in the fall before you use your heating system and once in the spring before you start your air conditioner. These check-ups will insure that your system is performing at its most efficient and providing optimum home comfort. A maintenance check-up will also extend the life of your equipment, increase cost effectiveness, and insure safe operations of your equipment.
According to the EPA, as much as half of the energy used in your home goes to heating and cooling. Making smart decisions on your heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system can increase the efficiency of your system and have a large affect on your utility bills. In fact, studies show that properly maintaining your heating and cooling systems can reduce energy bills by up to 35%!
When we turn on our central heating and air conditioning we expect them to be able to deliver the temperature we want to be comfortable in a variety of conditions and to deliver it all day long. If your HVAC unit is not maintained properly, it may be working too hard or inefficiently to deliver the comfort of a consistent air temperature.
We all, of course, want our heating and cooling system to last as long as possible. But just like a new car will decline in performance without regular maintenance, so will your heating and cooling system. According to Energy Star your system will last several years longer with proper maintenance.
Many people avoid routine maintenance because of the expected high cost. You can get regular maintenance done on your equipment for around $150/year (and even less with multi-year agreements). Don’t wait until your air conditioner won’t cool or your furnace won’t ignite before you call for service. At this point you’ll typically pay more (because it’s an emergency call) and have to wait (because it’s usually around the hottest or coolest day of the year). Having your HVAC system put on a yearly maintenance schedule will pay for itself in lower repair costs, less aggravation, and more efficient operation.
One of the most important reasons to schedule routine maintenance is for safety – for you and your family. A typical maintenance check-up will include tightening all electrical connections, measuring the voltage and current on motors and checking for small holes in your system’s heat exchanger or firebox. These issues can be very dangerous … even fatal. Faulty electrical connections can cause shorts and unsafe operation, while carbon monoxide leaks or open flames in your living space can create fire or a serious health hazard.
According to Carrier, a manufacturer of HVAC systems, proper air conditioning maintenance can help your unit last decades. On the flip side, a neglected air conditioner loses roughly 5% of its efficiency each year that it operates without upkeep. “So that green machine you bought to stay cool could start to function like the most inefficient thing on the market, if you fail to perform regular air conditioning maintenance.” Proper maintenance will increase the longevity of your heating and cooling system and increase the overall comfort of your home year round.
Sources: www.ajperri.com
http://www.carrier.com
http://www.energystar.gov
- Posted: Aug 25, 2009
This article is intended to assist consumers with the very difficult decision of choosing the right comfort system for their home and family. Every application is a little different, just as every family has slightly different needs, wants and challenges. Some families have multiple generations living in the same home, while others have a home office, some have immune-compromised or allergenic family members, and still others are out of the home for long period of time. Every situation is unique and the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning industry has a myriad number of options to address every situation that life can throw at it. In this document, you will learn about industry jargon, common terms, available rebates, options you can choose, and how to read between the lines in your estimates. To us, an educated customer is the best kind, as you won’t feel vulnerable, overwhelmed, or muscled into a decision about an appliance you don’t understand. Once you have all of your reading out of the way you’ll be able to make a decision you feel comfortable about with a company you feel great about!
Two-thirds of all homes in the United States have air conditioners. Air conditioners use about 5% of all the electricity produced in the United States, at a cost of over $11 billion to homeowners. As a result,roughly 100 million tons of carbon dioxide are released into the air each year—an average of about two tons for each home with an air conditioner. Switching to high-efficiency air conditioners and taking other actions to keep your home cool could reduce this energy use by 20%–50%.
System Sizing
Heat Load Calculation or Manual J—a technique that evaluates your home’s volume, construction methods and materials, window area, and arrives at the accurate heat nfiltration (or heat gain) in British thermal units so that an appropriately sized unit can be proposed for the replacement. Older space conditioning systems (more than 10 years old) are often unreliable and much less efficient than a modern system. When it's time for a new replacement, choosing one of the correct size (heating and/or cooling output) is critical to getting the best efficiency, comfort, and lowest maintenance and operating costs over the life of the new system. Some national surveys have determined that well over half of all HVAC contractors do not size heating and cooling systems correctly.
The most common sizing mistake is in oversizing. This not only makes the new system more expensive to install, but also forces it to operate inefficiently, break down more often, and cost more to operate. Oversized heating equipment also often creates uncomfortable and large temperature swings in the house. Oversized air conditioners (and heat pumps) do not run long enough to dehumidify the air, which results in the "clammy" feeling and unhealthy mold growth in many air-conditioned houses (see dehumidifying heat pipes as one solution to this problem).
Incorrect Sizing Methods
It is the installer/contractor's job to perform the correct sizing calculation for the building. However, many installers only check the "nameplate" (the label on the unit that has the Btu per hour output among other things) of the existing system and sell you one just like it, or even worse, one that's larger. This is a not a correct sizing method and not in your best interests! Other methods include simple "rules of thumb" based on the size of your home or using a chart that accounts for a variety of factors. While these methods might provide a first estimate, they should not be used to size your system.
Why Most Older Systems are Oversized
Before the era of tightly constructed homes, it was not uncommon to install furnaces and air conditioners that had two to four times the necessary capacity. Since many people have added new windows, caulking, weather-stripping, and insulation to their homes, going by the nameplate is likely to result in an oversized system. Making improvements such as these to reduce heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer should allow you to install a smaller system while still being comfortable, as
well as saving large amounts of energy.
Manual J and Manual D: The Correct Way to Size a System
Correct system sizing requires considering many factors other than simply reading the nameplate of the existing unit. Key factors for correctly sizing a heating and cooling system include the following:
- The local climate
- Size, shape, and orientation of the house
- Insulation levels
- Window area, location, and type
- Air infiltration rates
- The number and ages of occupants
- Occupant comfort preferences
- The types and efficiencies of lights and major home appliances (which give off heat).
Homeowners should insist that contractors use a correct sizing calculation before signing a contract. This service is often offered at little or no cost to homeowners by gas and electric utilities, major heating equipment manufacturers, and conscientious heating and air conditioning contractors. Manual J, "Residential Load Calculation," published by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA), is the recommended method for use in the United States. There are also many user-friendly computer
software packages or worksheets that can simplify the calculation procedure. You should make sure that the procedure used by the contractor follows Manual J.
What is a SEER Anyway?
SEER—Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio—is a term used in thermodynamics that reflects how efficient the unit is. The higher the SEER rating of a unit, the more energy efficient it is. The SEER rating is the btu (BTU—British Thermal Units. Air conditioners are sized by tonnage. A ton of air conditioning produces 12,000 btus of cooling capacity. A five-ton unit would provide 60,000 btus of cooling.) of cooling output during a typical cooling-season divided by the total electric energy input in watt-hours
during the same period.
SEER rating more accurately reflects overall system efficiency on a seasonal basis and EER reflects the system’s energy efficiency at peak day operations. Both ratings are important when choosing products. As of January 2006, all residential air conditioners sold in the United States must have a SEER of at least 13. ENERGY STAR qualified Central Air Conditioners must have a SEER of at least 14. Today, it is rare to see systems rated below SEER 9 in the United States because aging, existing units are being replaced with new, higher efficiency units. The United States now requires that residential systems manufactured after 2005 have a minimum SEER rating of 13, although window units are exempt from this law so their SEERs are still around 10. Substantial energy savings can be obtained from more efficient systems. For example by upgrading from SEER 9 to SEER 13, the power consumption is reduced by 30% (equal to 1 - 9/13). It is claimed that this can result in an energy savings valued at up to US$300 per year depending on the usage rate and the cost of electricity.
Maintenance should be performed regularly to keep their efficiencies as high as possible.
But when either replacing equipment, or specifying new installations, a variety of SEERs are available. For most applications, the minimum or near-minimum SEER units are most cost effective, but the longer the cooling seasons, the higher the electricity costs, and the longer the purchasers will own the systems, incrementally higher SEER units are justified. Residential split-system ACs of SEER 20 or more are now available, but at substantial cost premiums over the standard SEER 13 units.
Calculating the annual cost of power for an air conditioner.
Air conditioner sizes are often given as "tons" of cooling where 1 ton of cooling is defined as being equivalent to 12,000 BTU/h. The annual cost of electric power consumed by a 72,000 BTU/h (6 ton) air conditioning unit operating for 1000 hours per year with a SEER rating of 10 and a power cost of 12¢ per kilowatt-hour (kW·h) may be calculated as follows:
(72,000 BTU/h) × (1000 h) × (12¢/kW·h) ÷ (10 BTU/W·h) ÷ (1000 W/kW) = $864 annual cost
If you’re not into equations, we’ve decided to make it a little simpler to follow. The next page contains a spreadsheet that will show you the typical energy use for a home in West Florida, with a 3 ton, 10 SEER unit, that has the indoor temperature set at 78 degrees in the summer. At your appointment with us, we can load your actual size unit into the spreadsheet, and give you a good idea of what to expect when it comes to your actual power savings.
SEER Savings Calculation
| Your Tonnage | 3 Your BTUH | 36000 | |
| Hours Run Time Annually | 2800 | West Florida Avg | |
| Power Cost: | 0.12 | Monthly Cost | |
| Your Annual Cost at 10 SEER | $1,209.60 | $100.80 | |
| New Seer | Projected Annual Cost |
Projected Annual Savings | Projected Monthly Savings |
| 13 | $930.46 | $279.14 | $23.26 |
| 15 | $806.40 | $403.20 | $33.60 |
| 16 | $756.00 | $453.60 | $37.80 |
| 18 | $672.00 | $537.60 | $44.80 |
Heat Pump Systems: Do I need one? Do I want one?
For climates with moderate heating and cooling needs, like west central Florida, heat pumps offer an energy-efficient alternative to furnaces and air conditioners. Like your refrigerator, heat pumps use electricity to move heat from a cool space into a warm, making the cool space cooler and the warm space warmer. During the heating season, heat pumps move heat from the cool outdoors into your warm house; during the cooling season, heat pumps move heat from your cool house into the warm outdoors. Because they move heat rather than generate heat, heat pumps can provide up to 4 times the amount of energy they consume.
The most common type of heat pump is the air-source heat pump, which transfers heat between your house and the outside air. If you heat with electricity, a heat pump can trim the amount of electricity you use for heating by as much as 30%–40%. High-efficiency heat pumps also dehumidify better than standard central air conditioners, resulting in less energy usage and more cooling comfort in summer months. However, the efficiency of most air-source heat pumps as a heat source drops dramatically at
low temperatures, generally making them unsuitable for cold climates, although there are systems that can overcome that problem.
Heat Pump Operations
Proper operation of your heat pump will save energy. Continuous indoor fan operation can degrade heat pump performance and increase the humidity level in your home. Operate the system on the "auto" fan setting on the thermostat.
Like all heating and cooling systems, proper maintenance is key to efficient operation. The difference between the energy consumption of a well-maintained heat pump and a severely neglected one ranges from 10%–25%.
Clean or change filters once a month or as needed, and maintain the system according to manufacturer's instructions. Dirty filters, coils, and fans reduce airflow through the system. Reduced airflow decreases system performance and can damage your system's compressor. Clean outdoor coils whenever they appear dirty; occasionally, turn off power to the fan and clean it; remove vegetation and clutter from around the outdoor unit. Clean the supply and return registers within your home, and straighten their fins if bent.
You should also have a professional technician service your heat pump at least twice every year.
Advanced Technology
A number of relatively new innovations are improving the performance of heat pumps.
Unlike standard compressors that can only operate at full capacity, two-speed compressors allow heat pumps to operate close to the heating or cooling capacity that is eeded at any particular moment. This saves large amounts of electrical energy and reduces compressor wear. Two-speed heat pumps also work well with zone control systems. Zone control systems, often found in larger homes or homes with multiple living arrangements, use automatic dampers to allow the heat pump to keep different rooms at different temperatures.
Some models of heat pumps are equipped with variable-speed or dual-speed motors on their indoor fans (blowers), outdoor fans, or both. The variable-speed controls for these fans attempt to keep the air moving at a comfortable velocity, minimizing cool drafts and maximizing electrical savings. It also minimizes the noise from the blower running at full speed, making these systems some of the quietest available on the market today. As a bonus, these systems run on low speed nearly 90 percent of the
time, which maximizes the humidity removal and increases both the comfort in the home and indoor air quality.
Another advance in heat pump technology is the scroll compressor, which consists of two spiral-shaped scrolls. One remains stationary, while the other orbits around it, compressing the refrigerant by forcing it into increasingly smaller areas. Compared to the typical piston compressors, scroll compressors have a longer operating life and are quieter. According to some reports, heat pumps with scroll compressors provide 10°–15°F (5.6°–8.3°C) warmer air when in the heating mode, compared to existing heat pumps with piston compressors.
Air Conditioning 101
Air conditioners employ the same operating principles and basic components as your home refrigerator. Refrigerators use energy (usually electricity) to transfer heat from the cool interior of the refrigerator to the relatively warm surroundings of your home; likewise, an air conditioner uses energy to transfer heat from the interior of your home to the relatively warm outside environment.
An air conditioner cools your home with a cold indoor coil called the evaporator. The condenser, a hot outdoor coil, releases the collected heat outside. The evaporator and condenser coils are serpentine tubing surrounded by aluminum fins. This tubing is usually made of copper.
A pump, called the compressor, moves a heat transfer fluid (or refrigerant) between the evaporator and the condenser. The pump forces the refrigerant through the circuit of tubing and fins in the coils.
The liquid refrigerant evaporates in the indoor evaporator coil, pulling heat out of indoor air and thereby cooling your home. The hot refrigerant gas is pumped outdoors into the condenser where it reverts back to a liquid, giving up its heat to the outside air flowing over the condenser's metal tubing and fins.
Ask about Proper Installation of your new equipment
Replacing your old heating and cooling equipment with new, energy-efficient models is a great start. But to make sure that you get the best performance, the new equipment must be properly installed. In fact, improper installation can reduce system efficiency by up to 30 percent — costing you more on your utility bills and possibly shortening the equipment's life.
Finding Qualified Equipment:
The Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE) and the Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute (ARI) have developed an online database which can be used to find qualifying ENERGY STAR equipment. All equipment listed in this online database meets the specification requirements for ENERGY STAR. This online database is solely maintained and operated by CEE and ARI. Your contractor should furnish you with the ARI certificate for your system to ensure the efficiency of the system is as promised. You can check it yourself at www.ari.org.
Available Rebates, Tax Credits, and Incentives
Rebates and incentives are available, but they are dependent on a variety of qualification factors. If your power is supplied by TECO or Progress Energy, rebates are available if you opt for a heat pump system greater than 15 SEER. The rebate amount varies depending on the type of unit you currently have, the efficiency of the unit you install, and the inspection performed by the power company after the installation. TECO rebates are discounted off of the price of the unit; Progress Energy rebates are
delivered in the form of a credit on your power bill.
Manufacturers often offer cash incentives. Please check with your representative for current rebates.
Tax Credits for Consumers:
Home Improvements
Tax credits are now available for home improvements:
- must be "placed in service" from January 1, 2009 through December 31, 2010
- must be for taxpayer's principal residence, EXCEPT for geothermal heat pumps, solar water heaters, solar panels, and small wind energy systems (where second homes and rentals qualify)
- $1,500 is the maximum total amount that can be claimed for all products placed in service in 2009 & 2010 for most home improvements, EXCEPT for geothermal heat pumps, solar water heaters, solar panels, fuel cells, and small wind energy systems which are not subject to this cap, and are in effect through 2016
- must have a Manufacturer Certification Statement to qualify for record keeping, save your receipts and the Manufacturer Certification Statement
- improvements made in 2009 will be claimed on your 2009 taxes (filed by April 15, 2010) — use IRS Tax Form 5695 (2009 version) — it will be available late 2009 or early 2010
Definitions of ratings:
Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF):
Can’t I Just Replace a Piece of the Unit?
 |
 |
 |
| Condensing Unit | Air Handling Unit | Packaged Unit |
After March 1, 2009, permits to install units won’t be issued in most counties in Florida for equipment that doesn’t meet the federally mandated minimum of 13 SEER. That means if you have a newer “piece” of equipment that CAN be matched with another piece to produce the 13 SEER, you’re covered. If the piece is 3 years of age or older, it might be difficult to find a piece. Quality contractors don’t recommend “piecemealing” systems together, as it isn’t in the consumer’s best interest. With the warranties and
efficiencies available today, it is best to replace the entire system.
Permit!? Did you say PERMIT?!
You bet. It is for your protection! The building codes are in place to protect homeowners and ensure their safety. If anyone says that permits drive up the cost of unit, they’re right, in a way. It keeps people from cutting corners that compromise the equipment’s longevity and your safety!
Here’s the process:
1. A licensed contractor applies to the county for a replacement unit permit.
2. Then, they post the permit at your home and install the unit, bringing everything surrounding the unit into compliance with the current codes.
3. After installation is complete, an “inspection” is called in and a county inspector visits the home, checking for compliance with the code.
4. The inspection either passes or fails. If it fails, a “tag” is left, listing the infractions.
Don’t use anyone who works without a permit. It puts you at risk!
A Word About Brands
In this day and age, most equipment is reliable. In fact, the most brands use Copeland Scroll compressors! Brands are really a matter of preference from the consumer’s standpoint. Look for the factory parts warranty, which should be 10 years and don’t settle for less. Lifetime compressor warranties are a nice, safe bonus. What really matter is the installation. Any brand works well when installed properly, and every brand will fail when installed without attention to details like copper sizing, static pressure in ductwork, and proper seals and sizing for your application. The labor warranty lets you determine how long the contractor is responsible for the repair bills, and with a purchase of this magnitude, it ought to be at least 10 years. If a compressor fails after the installing contractor’s labor guarantee lapses, it could mean upwards of $600 in bills for you.
Indoor Air Quality
Lots of people suffer from allergies and asthma. Billions of dollars are spent annually on room air cleaners and filters to improve the quality of their indoor air, which often (according to the American Lung Association) contains more irritants than outdoor air. Americans spend 80 percent of their time indoors, so making the air we breathe the cleanest it can be is certainly a priority. That priority escalates when someone in the family is suffering. Whether it is a child with asthma, an adult suffering from allergies and migraines, or someone with a compromised respiratory system, your air conditioner can help! That’s right: your air conditioner can be part of the solution.
Three Steps to Better Indoor Air Quality
In truth, there are three steps to improving the air.
1. Remove source pollutants. No smoking, etc.
2. Filter out the pollutants.
3. Dilute, or add fresh outside add to pressurize the home and minimize the contaminants.
Sounds easy, right? When you consider the hundreds of types of filters out there, and then add to that hundreds more indoor air quality devices like UV lights, then mix it all up with your specific problems and contaminants, indoor air can get downright confusing. There is a great way to sort it out.
One great way is to address the humidity in your home. The optimal humidity for human life is 50 percent. That level, however, is not optimal for a dust mite! At that humidity level, dust mites can’t thrive or reproduce, molds can’t form and spore, and lungs breathe easy. Easy solution, right? All it takes is a correctly sized air conditioning system and a system designed for optimal humidity removal. There are many systems that have thermostats that can control both humidity and temperature. Be sure to ask for options that perform in this way if allergies or asthma is a concern for your family. You can’t afford not to! Make sure the thermostat is able to be set to detect and respond to humidity calls as well as temperature calls, and ensure the operation of the unit by requiring a variable speed air handler (a two-speed compressor is optimal) be pair with that thermostat.
Don’t buy any filtration system until you know precisely what’s in your air. Some homes have an abundance of particulate, while other have issues with volatile organic compounds (VOCs); some homes have both. People spend lots of money that they don’t have to by trying to filter out the wrong things. Using an analytical device call the AirAdvice, you can determine exactly what’s in your air, where your humidity levels are, and pinpoint exactly which solution is appropriate for your problem without spending more than you need and getting an extremely effective solution. (Bayonet Plumbing & AC will be glad to perform the AirAdvice test for you.)
Humidity percentage
 |
This chart shows the humidity levels at which the listed microbes and health problems are likely flourish. As the width of the bar increases, indoor air quality diminishes and potential health problems increase. For example, virus growth is unsupported at humidity levels of 50% to 70%, but its growth rates steadily increase above and below this maximum growth at 0% and 100% relative humidity. |
Types of Filters Available
The Main Types of Filters are Media Filters, Electronic Air Cleaners, Photocatalytic Air Cleaners, HEPA filtration systems. Each will be explained in brief below.
Media Filters: these are whole house filters installed on the return side of your air handler or furnace. They provide the added benefit of keeping your coil clean, which helps keep your system running efficiently. If you have multiple returns in your home, all of the filters can be removed when this one is installed (and should be to prevent problems). All media filters are not created equal! They are rated with a MERV rating system. ($$)
MERV ratings are used to rate the ability of an air conditioning filter to remove dust from the air as it passes through the filter. MERV is a standard used to measure the overall efficiency of a filter. Higher MERV ratings mean fewer dust particles and other airborne contaminats pass through the filter.
MERV ratings range from 1 - 16 and measurements are in microns. Some of the common particles related to MERV ratings are pet dander, insecticide dust, smog, dust, viruses, wood, tobacco smoke, spores, bacteria and pollen.
Some of the most common filters found in residential use only have a are typically disposable panel type filters and do not do a good job of filtering the air because they will
not stop particles smaller than 10 microns. Merv 5 to 8 rated filters are a better choice and are more commonly found in commercial applications. These filters will collect particles as small as 3 microns and are a good choice for home owners also.
Filters with a merv rating of 9 to 12 are used in commercial and industrial appliactions will stop particles in the 1 to 3 micron range. These filters are a great choice for home owners who want the best dust control possible. When using filters with Merv 9 ratings and above it is important to clean or replace them when recommended by the manufacturer because they will have a negative effect on air flow when they become dirty. This can lead to performance problems and decreased operating efficiency.
The most efficient filters have merv ratings of 13 to 16 and will stop particles as small as .3 microns. These filters are used in hospitals and other super clean environments.
Most media filters need replacing annually, but some will need replacement every 6 months dependent on living conditions.
HEPA Filters: Before getting into details about hepa air filters it is important to first answer a commonly asked question regarding the word HEPA. What does hepa stand for? HEPA is an acronym which stands for High Efficiency Particulate Arrestance. To qualify as a HEPA filter, the filter has to capture a minimum of 99.97% of all particles 0.3 microns in diameter. That is about 300 times smaller than the diameter of a human hair and smaller than we can see.
Hepa air filters are among the most efficient air conditioner filters available. At over 99 percent efficient, a hepa air filter will remove almost all allergens from the air that passes through your HVAC equipment. Hepa air filters remove dust mites, pet dander, pollen, mold spores and other household allergens.
Hepa air filters are commonly used in environments where very clean air is a must, such as clean rooms, hospital wards, surgical rooms and other places where maximum dust removal is very important. Hepa filters are also used in many other applications such as very efficient hepa vacuum cleaners and HEPA air cleaners. They do, however, require strict maintenance to maintain performance. They are typically expensive to install and do not provide any protection for your coil.
Electronic Air Cleaners: these units require a small amount of electricity to operate and produce a small amount of ozone as a by-product. They are attached to your indoor unit (air handler or furnace) and they work by adding an ionic charge to airborne particles and then attracting them to collector plates. They are slightly more expensive to purchase and install, but do not require filter changes, as the electronic cells are washable. As with all electronics, the electronic cells and ionizing wires can wear out or break, so be careful when choosing this option. ($$$)
Filters with Photocatalytic Oxidation: in simplest terms, this is the best of all solutions, providing a broad spectrum solution without ozone. A great example is Lennox’s PureAir. It uses a MERV 16 media filter in conjunction with a bank of UVa lights with titanium-dioxide coated plates that provide a photocatalytic effect on air passing through the plates. In layman’s terms, this filter removes all smells, odors, and VOCs from the airstream. In scientific terms, it hydrolyzes bioaerosols. Either way, when paired with a humidity-controlling system, this is the penultimate option.
This article was composed for Bayonet Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning Inc’s customers by Bayonet sales manager Kris Blankenship. Please do not reproduce without permission, but please feel free to bombard us with your questions. We hope you feel a little more prepared to evaluate and state your needs and more comfortable with the ins and outs of an AC system.
To download a PDF of this article, click here.
- Posted: Aug 13, 2009
As of January 2010, R-22 refrigerant, a HCFC (hydrochlorofluorocarbon), will no longer be manufactured. This refrigerant has been the refrigerant of choice for residential heat pump and air conditioning systems for over four decades. The Title VI of the Clean Air Act implemented by the EPA has established a schedule to phaseout HCFCs, including R-22, which contain ozone-destroying chlorine. Manufacturers of residential air conditioning systems have started offering equipment that uses ozone-friendly refrigerants. This transition will cause changes that homeowners should be aware of. It will affect future availability, provide new replacement refrigerants, and cause price increases for R-22. Additionally, this transition will affect homeowners’ decisions when they have repairs done on existing equipment and when they are thinking of purchasing new air conditioning systems or heat pumps.
The Clean Air Act does not “allow any refrigerant to be vented into the atmosphere during installation, service or retirement of equipment”. This means that R-22 must be “recovered and recycled (for reuse in the same system), reclaimed (repossessed to the same purity levels as new R-22), or destroyed.” After 2020, the servicing of R-22-based systems will rely on recycled refrigerants. According to the EPA, this reclamation and recycling should ensure that existing supplies of R-22 will last longer and be available to service a greater number of systems.
Existing units using R-22 can continue to be serviced with R-22. There is no EPA requirement to change or convert R-22 units for use with the new non-zone-depleting refrigerants. In order to change a system over to 410A it would need to change the condenser (outdoor unit), the evaporator coil and the refrigerant copper line set in most cases. Service technicians who repair leaks to the system will be able to continue to charge R-22 into the system as part of the repair so that this conversion would be unnecessary.
As R-22 is gradually phased out, non-ozone-depleting alternative refrigerants are being introduced to the HVAC industry. One of these substitutes is R-410A. This is manufactured and sold under various trade names, including GENETRON, AZ-20 ®, SUVA 410A ®, and Puron ®.
Another thing to be aware of is the possible price increases of R-22. The price is expected to go up as the supply of dwindles over the next 20 – 30 years. The EPA, however, believes that consumers are not likely to be subjected to major price increases due to the lengthy phaseout period.
The average life expectancy of an air conditioning unit or heat pump is around 15 years. What this means to homeowners, for example, is if you had installed a new R-22 air conditioning system in the year 2002, you will be able to get refrigerant for your system at least until the year 2020 when it will no longer be manufacturered. Chances are, within that much time you will need a new system, so you shouldn’t base a purchase on freon alone.
The new systems will incorporate compressors and other components specifically designed for use with specific replacement refrigerants. This significant change in both the product and production processes will require new testing and training. Consumers should be aware that dealers of systems that use substitute refrigerants should be schooled in installation and service techniques required for use of that substitute refrigerant.
Homeowners that have older equipment and decide to replace their old system should strongly consider purchasing high-energy efficient systems. Energy-efficient systems will result in costs savings. Today’s energy efficient air conditioners use much less energy to produce that same amount of cooling. According to the EPA, Energy Star ® labeled products can save homeowners 10 – 40% on their heating and cooling bills every year.
This is a change that benefits everyone, including our planet. Homeowners just need to understand how it will affect them and to be prepared. You can go to www.energystar.gov for more information on energy efficient systems.
Sources: www.energystar.gov
www.epa.gov
http://www.ajperri.com
Problems of Poor Indoor Air Quality
- Posted: Jul 29, 2009
There are a variety of health and environmental effects that are caused by poor air quality. According to the EPA, asthma is a growing public health problem with about 23 million people suffering from asthma, 6.8 million of which are children. Other problems caused by poor air quality are rhinitis, bacteria, sinusitis, dust and dirt build-up, excessive molds and mildew, smoke, increased utility bills (decreased air flow) and unpleasant fumes and odors. Fifty percent of illnesses, such as colds and flu, allergies and asthma, are caused or aggravated by mold, mildew, bacteria and fungi according to the American College of Allergists.
The American Lung Association states that the average American spends 70% of their time indoors and that the quality of indoor air can be 5 times worse than the air outside. In our quest to be more energy efficient, we are adding insulation, vapor barriers, caulk and weather-stripping to help retain our heated or cooled air in our homes. Unfortunately, this reduces air infiltration from the outside so that air and pollutants remain inside longer.
The HVAC (heating and cooling) industry has already come up with ways to improve the air quality in your homes. There are a variety of products currently on the market today to help combat poor air quality as well as some simple preventative measures homeowners can take.
A great way to improve indoor air quality is through an air purification system. This whole-house filtration system connects to your heating and cooling system. The Infinity Air Purifier, by CARRIER is one of the most effective whole-house air systems available on the market today. This system will remove 99.98% of allergens from filtered air and traps particles down to .3 microns in size. This system is also 100 times more effective than 1” filters. This system delivers clean air to the whole house and more of it.
Another option is an Air Cleaner which will also attach to your heating and cooling system. An air cleaner can improve your health and comfort by keeping your entire home cleaner, protect your furnishings and save you time and the aggravation of continuous dusting and cleaning. Whole-house air cleaners are up to 40 times more efficient than standard furnace filters. It cleans irritants from the air such as bacteria, allergens, respirable dust and other airborne contaminants. Another benefit of a whole-house air cleaner is that it protects against the build-up of dust and dirt in your heating and cooling system, which if left alone can lead to increased and expensive maintenance as well as premature failure.
Ultraviolet (UV) Germicidal Lamps are another way to remove airborne contaminants from your home. Mold and bacteria can easily grow on air conditioning coils as a result of normal condensation that takes place during the cooling process. A UV Germicidal Lamp is designed to eliminate the mold and bacteria on the air conditioning coils. The elimination of mold and bacteria will reduce your family’s risk of allergic reactions and illnesses as well as get rid of foul odors. It also allows your home comfort system to run less often, for shorter periods of time and at peak efficiency.
Whole-house duct cleaning is also a great way to improve air quality inside your home. Duct cleaning dislodges dirt and debris in the airflow systems and is followed by a thorough cleaning. This cleaning will kill germs and bacteria, remove dust from your home, improve the efficiency of your system, and make your home smell clean and fresh.
A last simple thing that homeowners can do is change the filters on their heating and cooling system once a month. This will cut down on the amount of dust and pollutants in the air. Filters remove dust and other particles from the air such as pollen, bacteria, smoke, smog, pet dander, and plant and mold spores. They will also help increase the energy efficiency and prolong the life of your heating and cooling system.
The air we breathe in our homes is loaded with pollutants and since we spend so much of our time indoors, we owe it to ourselves and our families to provide the cleanest air we can. Removing dust, allergens, bacteria and odors can do wonders for your health and the quality of your life.
Sources: www.ajperri.com
www.carrier.com
www.epa.com
www.lungusa.org
www.acaai.org
QUICK CUSTOMER TOOLS
QUICK CONTACT INFO
Telephone
(727) 493-2712
(800) 535-4505
(877) BAYONET
Fax
(727) 863-7237